Catania, Sicily. Monday, April 30 2018.

Catania, Sicily, Cathedral Square. Monday, April 30 2018. 

The Saint’s Tits

Dear Trail Friends

Here we are sitting in the sun in Cathedral Square. We’ve come by bus from the island of Ortigia - though by means of a somewhat elaborate transfer to Siracusa via vans, since the big bus could not fit the narrow streets of Ortigia. It was our first bus ride as a group - all 31 - and the mood in the bus was very relaxed. A lot of laughter. 

Chris and I sat across the aisle from Ben and Kiki (also from Orcas Island) and Ben and I discovered that we had in common rebellious reflexes. When our guide Angela asked that those who sit in the front seats of the bus take only one turn and then leave it for others, Ben told me he would take it twice. I said I would too, though when we learned that the present occupants needed to be near the front because of severe motion sickness we both generously volunteered to give up both our days (the one we were allowed and the one we would have stolen) to the potentially sick ones. 

I told Ben about the cartoon my father clipped for me of a person running forward with guns  in both hands, a knife clamped between his teeth, swords tucked under his arms, and the byline “you’ve got to take me as I am.” Kiki responded with her family’s iconic cartoon, with the byline: “Uncle Purvis was a man of high ideals. He subjected himself and his motivation to such ridged scrutiny that he rarely met his own standards. He never did anything.” It was fun being on the bus. 

Since you are riding with us in imagination, I want to be sure you know our bus so you won’t ever be left behind, so here it is in photo 1. 

In late morning we walked through the open market of Catania - and I enjoyed it more than I expected to. I anticipated being overwhelmed by crowds and yelling and getting into my typical “sensory overload” mode, but in fact I felt curious and present. I think perhaps I was able to enjoy it because I had gotten up early this morning and took a long solitary walk around the island. 

There were very few people out - garbage collectors, fishermen, a few other walkers. I found myself relaxing and opening up to the environment, and so wishing I could do so more often when surrounded by people. 

Photo 2 is a collage from my early morning hike around the island of Ortigia: a narrow street by daylight with its balconies and flowers (upper left), a sculpture of the nymph Arethusa and her pursuer Alfeus (lower left), an unfinished peach tree painted on a garage door (lower right), the shoreline of the island as I walked around it (upper right).  Photo 3 is a close-up of beach pebbles and sea glass (on the beach down the stairs in photo 1, left upper photo)- I was overwhelmed by all the sea glass. I’m in the habit of picking up sea glass for my sister Judy, and usually it’s a lucky day if I find a half dozen pieces on a two hour beach walk.  But there was so much sea glass on this tiny beach that I would have needed a garbage bag to haul it all away. An embarrassment of riches. 

The collage in Photo 4 shows our tour guide Angela in the upper right,  talking (with her hands) in Cathedral Square. She’s telling us about Saint Agatha, who refused to marry a non-Christian and had her breasts cut off as punishment.  The Tette di Sant’Agata - breasts of Saint Agatha (lower right) are a favorite pastry in Catania. Tour group member Beth (middle right) bravely sampled one.  She described it as a thin layer of sponge cake, then ricotta, then pistachio cream, then white icing with a cherry on top. Group member Raquel (left) dressed today in a designer top with two red elephant appliqués (mother and child) - she didn’t even know that Catania is known as the city of elephants (note the elephant on top of the fountain). Sorry I didn’t get a better view of Raquel’s dress. You’ll have to use your imagination. But you are good at that - or you wouldn’t be coming along on this trip on this way.